6 – Trincomalee
Moving away from the cultural centre it’s probably time to enjoy some of what Eastern Sri Lanka has to offer and to kick back a bit. Trincomalee (Trinco) is eastern Sri Lanka’s major town and is a port set on a peninsula. Fort Frederick was built by the Portuguese in the seventeenth century. Within its grounds, the grand Koneswaram Temple stands on Swami Rock cliff, a popular vantage point for blue-whale watching. The holy complex contains ornate shrines and a massive statue of Shiva. Nearby Gokana Temple offers panoramic views over the city and the coastline. Trincomalee went through difficult times during the civil war, which ended in 2009 and has recently started to regain more attention from tourists. This means it is still relatively quiet yet it’s fabulous for families who want to enjoy the leisurely beach life alongside some fantastic marine activities. From Trinco you can surf, snorkel, scuba dive, go fishing and whale watching. Sri Lanka is a great destination to learn or improve surfing and lessons for both children and adults are inexpensive and offered by locals who understand the nuances of each beach, tides and currents.
Nilaveli and Uppuveli beaches get a special mention here as the sand is superfine and white, the ocean is crystal clear and there are notably fewer undercurrents than some of the other beautiful beaches that make it ideal for swimming. Nilaveli, around 15km north of Trinco, is often described as one of the best beaches in Sri Lanka because of its unspoiled landscape.
Families and kids will love roaming the super soft sandy shores in search of shells and crabs. If you’re looking for something to do beyond lounging on the beach, check out nearby Pigeon Island National Marine Park, that is home to many species of vegetation, coral and reef fish contributing to Nilaveli’s rich biodiversity, ideal for snorkeling enthusiasts. Uppuveli is a bit closer to Trinco and offers a similar quality of beach although probably more tourists, restaurants and accommodation choices. You can also hire paddleboards and kayaks and has sunbeds and shelter from the sun and you can buy alcohol (not always unimportant for parents!)
7 – Kandy
To continue the balance between beach and culture, a few hours private transfer back inland can take you all to Kandy; the biggest city in Sri Lanka after the capital Colombo. It is positioned on a plateau surrounded by mountainous tea plantations and rainforests.
Bogambara Lake, created in 1807 by the last ruler of the kingdom of Kandy, lies at the heart of the city and walking around it is a beautiful ritual that offers some tranquility and wildlife spotting among an otherwise busy city. Within the lake complex you will find the famous Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) shrine, so called as it apparently houses one of Buddah’s original teeth taken from the ashes after his cremation in India, around two and half thousand years ago. At certain times you will find “puja” (offerings or prayers) including Kandyan drummers followed by a ceremonial opening of the room where the tooth is kept so people can revere it – FYI you don’t get to see the tooth – it’s kept under high security.
It is considered a rite of karmic passage pilgrimage for many Sri Lankans, which I think is a good enough reason to visit, as well as sounding as if it is something from an Indiana Jones movie, you’ve seen Temple of Doom right?
Just outside of the city is the charming Peradeniya Botanic Garden. Once reserved exclusively for Kandyan Royalty, it’s sixty hectares is now open to the public, allowing you to enjoy its stunning array of orchids, beautiful trees, spice garden and expansive lawns. You can easily lose a couple of hours here if you have kids young enough to be happy to play amongst the flora and fauna, or make it a picnic destination for older kids.
8 – Feasts all round
Food, which is always a big deal on holidays. Of course for families with different taste buds and unwillingness to try new things, it can be challenging. You want to experience cultural cuisine, but you also want to like it! And feel sated.
There are many uniquely Sri Lankan foods that you can try;
etc!
Sri Lankan breakfasts are usually superb, yet non-controversial – great for fussier kids. You will also find short eats; various pastries, filled breads and fried snacks. Some are absolutely delicious, some are weird and some just not good, but all worth a try! These are also great for snacks and lunch on the hoof when you are out and about.
Ultimately Sri Lanka is, like India – although using different techniques and spices – home of the curry. And on the coast, it’s fish and lots of it. As with any destinations that have tourists, some restaurants will always err on the side of predictable tourist menus – and sometimes that’s OK as you actually want something straightforward and, possibly, recognisably Western.
For those who enjoy the whole foodie experience though, time on a native homestay where you shop and cook fresh local ingredients, learning Sri Lankan curry making techniques and of course, then enjoying the fruits of your labour, can be an insightful and enjoyable experience for all the family.
From my own parenting food woes, I know that many children relish the chance to eat food they have prepared or been involved with making. They do at least seem far more willing to try it. Start them cooking young I say!
9 – Digana
Escaping the city you can head out to Digana. While only an hour away from Kandy, the vibe couldn’t be more different. You leave behind the hustle and bustle and take a journey among winding roads that become tracks, as the scenery becomes forests and paddy fields.
Life is simple here and it’s a great opportunity to see what rural life is like in Sri Lanka. From a walk among the farming land, to visiting a local school or just kicking back among the forest. The hills here are some of the wildest and least spoilt in Sri Lanka, with huge, though still largely unexplored, trekking and wildlife-spotting possibilities, plus the Mahaweli River and the Victoria Reservoir and its huge dam – this lovely spot shows you yet another side of this diverse island.
10 – Ella
Beautiful Ella is another jewel in Sri Lanka’s crown. Not least because of the iconic train journey to get there. The first railways were built by the British in the 1900’s initially, to transport tea and coffee from the Hill Country to Colombo for shipping. From Kandy, it takes around seven hours to Ella and you can choose from different classes (quality) of carriages in which to travel, from first class sleepers to very basic third class. I guess it depends if you and your family are more comfortable with those geared towards tourists or locals and really, there’s no shame in choosing comfort over an ‘authentic experience’ especially when you have younger kids.
The trains themselves and scenery from the train is just a photographers dream. The emerald sea of tea bush fields dotted with traditionally dressed tea pickers is like something out of National Geographic. It is such moments that make magical memories.
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